Red light traced the pointed arches and ribbed vaults of the Angel Orensanz Foundation before models moved through the center of the historic structure in the Lower East Side. Among the bold fabrics and dramatic silhouettes was a designer commanding attention at her New York Fashion Week debut.
Omolara Odupita, professionally known as LRÉ the Artist, stood proudly in front of a rack of multicolored, multitextured clothes that had just appeared on the runway at the Art Hearts Fashion Show alongside designers like Karl Kani, the “godfather of urban streetwear.”
Fresh off a feature in the latest season of Project Runway, Thursday marked LRÉ’s first of three shows this week. After New York, she headed to Paris and London. The Los Angeles-based designer, originally from Maryland, has been designing for 12 years.
“I’m on the moon,” LRÉ said of her packed year. “This has been the best experience.”
The all-white basement of the Angel Orensanz Foundation, where LRÉ took stock of her collection after the show, starkly contrasted with what was happening above. The runway sat in the center of one of New York’s oldest surviving Gothic Revival synagogues, where red light highlighted historic details dating back to the 1850s.
The red echoed staple pieces in LRÉ’s collection. LRÉ’s final look, the same dress she wore in her headshot for Project Runway’s 22nd season, resembled the fabric of heavy curtains in a royal home. A slit sat above the model’s right hip, contrasting with the modest draping on the other side.
As the parade of models closed out the show, LRÉ made her final appearance on the runway. And the designer wasn’t leaving until she got her applause. She reached the end of the runway, paused and politely waited for the crowd to erupt in cheers.
Unlike other designers who presented new collections Thursday, LRÉ showcased a range of her work. Some garments were eight years old, but each reflected her mission as a designer: creating unisex looks with a focus on busy fabrics and distinctive shapes.
“I like to go for the androgynous vibe, because I like everyone to be able to wear what I have,” LRÉ said. “When I wear my garments, I feel like a rock star. I feel like a superhero, and I want everyone to feel that same way.”
Her collection came directly after opening presentations by designers Karl Kani and Merlin Castell. Kani’s influence on the fashion industry traces back to the 1990s, when he popularized baggy denim and oversized T-shirts through music icons such as Tupac, Biggie Smalls and Aaliyah. Forbes and other outlets have since dubbed him the “godfather of urban streetwear.”
“You know how they say, ‘May your idols become your rivals?’ That’s how I feel,” LRÉ said. “It’s not that I’m in competition with anybody. It’s just more like this is the level that I’m at right now. I knew it was coming, but living in it, it just feels surreal.”
For Nijo Nimalan, a Karl Kani global ambassador representing Germany, the connection ran deeper. Growing up, he developed a love for the brand and hip-hop culture.
“I was a hip-hop ‘90s head, studying hip hop and studying what the rappers were wearing, so that definitely influenced me, my style,” he said. “All the older kids in school were wearing Karl Kani, and I always wanted to be cool like them.”
Now a global ambassador for the brand, Nimalan has developed a friendship with one of his idols.
Kani presented his newest collection with a montage of popular culture through the years playing on a screen behind the runway. The new garments could be described in two words: elevated streetwear. The ‘90s influence remained, but with a modern twist. Silks, movable denim, barrel pants and leather jackets with Kani-branded patches took the stage.
Vanessa Barrera, a graphic designer who attended Thursday’s show on a whim, said Kani’s work inspired her to return to an unfinished denim jacket project.
“I feel like that is an art in itself to get movement in denim clothing, and he definitely had a lot of movement in his denim pieces,” Barrera said.
For many, Fashion Week was just starting at the Art Hearts Fashion Show. Barrera planned to head to another show in the Financial District, Nimalan was scheduled to model in Kani’s Tuesday show and LRÉ had two more shows on her Fashion Week schedule.
As glamorous as it may have seemed, plenty of work continued behind the scenes.
LRÉ’s friends, sister and girlfriend all helped with the debut. After the interview, LRÉ and her support system shuffled out in unison, clothes piled into each of their arms as they searched for their car.
“This is the best outcome I could have ever asked for,” LRÉ said.
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